1. Definition Fiber is a natural or synthetic filament-like substance, and textile fiber refers to Fibers used to weave cloth. 2. Characteristics of textile fibers Textile fibers have a certain ...
1. Definition
Fiber is a natural or synthetic filament-like substance, and textile fiber refers to Fibers used to weave cloth.
2. Characteristics of textile fibers
Textile fibers have a certain length, fineness, and elasticity , strong and other good physical properties. It also has good chemical stability. For example, natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, and hemp are ideal textile fibers.
3. Textile fiber classification
Natural fibers and chemical fibers
① Natural fibers include plant fibers, animal fibers and mineral fibers.
A Plant fibers such as cotton, hemp, and fruit fibers.
B Animal fibers such as: wool, wool, silk.
C Mineral fibers such as: asbestos.
② Chemical fibers include regenerated fibers, synthetic fibers and inorganic fibers.
A Regenerated fiber such as: viscose fiber, acetate fiber.
B Synthetic fibers such as: nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex, vinylon, polypropylene, etc.
C Inorganic fibers such as: glass fiber, metal fiber, etc.
4. Textile properties of common textile fibers
① Wool: moisture absorption, elasticity, wearability All have good properties and are intolerant to insects, acidic and metal-binding dyes.
② Silk: It has good moisture absorption, breathability, gloss and wearability, and is suitable for acidic and direct dyes.
③ CottonFlower: breathable, hygroscopic, good wearing performance, insect-resistant, suitable for direct reduction of azo, alkaline medium, vulcanization, reactive dyes.
④ Viscose fiber: hygroscopic, good air permeability, bright colors, wide sources of raw materials, low cost, properties close to natural fibers, suitable for the same dyes as cotton.
⑤ Polyester: fabric, stiff, cool, good shape retention, wear-resistant, dimensional stability, easy to wash and quick-drying, suitable for disperse dyes, diazo disperse dyes , soluble vat dyes.
⑥ Nylon: Very good wear resistance, poor air permeability, suitable for acid dyes and loose dyes.
⑦ Acrylic: good fluffiness, fur-like feel, suitable for disperse dyes and cationic dyes.
NO.2
Identification of fiber
1. Identification methods
① The identification methods include feel, Visual inspection method, combustion method, microscope method, dissolution method, drug coloring method and infrared spectroscopy method, etc. In actual identification, it is often necessary to use multiple methods and obtain results after comprehensive analysis and research.
② The general identification steps are as follows:
A. First use the combustion method to identify natural Fibers and chemical fibers.
B. If it is a natural fiber, use microscope observation to identify various types of plant fibers and animal fibers. If it is a chemical fiber, the differences in melting point, specific gravity, refractive index, solubility and other aspects of the combined fiber can be distinguished one by one.
C. When identifying mixed fibers and blended yarns, you can generally use microscope observation to confirm that they contain several fibers, and then use appropriate methods to identify them one by one.
D. For dyed or finished fibers, dyeing stripping or other appropriate pretreatment is generally required first to ensure reliable identification results.
2. Combustion properties of common fibers
3. Fiber calculation method
①Customized length:
A. Tex: The weight of a yarn with a length of 1000 meters at a given moisture regain is called Tex.
Formula: TEX= (G/L) X1000
Where: G is yarn The weight (grams), L is the length of the yarn (meters)
B. Denier: The weight of a 9,000-meter-long silk at a given moisture regain is called denier.
Formula: NTEX= (G/L) X9000
Where: G is silk The weight (grams), L is the length of the silk (meters)
② Fixed weight:
A. Male count (male count): the length in meters of 1 gram of yarn (silk).
Formula: NM (N) = L/G
Where: 1 is yarn (Silk) length (meters), G is the weight of yarn (silk) (grams)
B. British count (English count): 1 pound of yarn line has Number of 840 yard lengths.
Formula: NE (S) = L/ (G X840)
Where: L is the length (yards) of the yarn (silk), G is the weight (pounds) of the yarn (silk).
4. Common raw materials used in bedding
① Pure cotton yarn: 36TEX (16S), 28TEX (21S), 18X2TEX32S/2) 15TEX 40S), 14X2TEX (42S/2), 10X2TEX (60S/2)
② Polyester-cotton yarn: 20TEX (30XS), 15TEX (40S), 13TEX (4/S)
NO.3
Fabric weave
1. Definition
Textiles are made up of two systems of mutually perpendicular yarns interwoven according to certain rules on a loom, that is, the warp and weft threads sink and float with each other according to certain rules, forming certain lines and patterns on the surface of the fabric. This This kind of organization is called fabric organization.
2. Fabric weave classification
① Original weave: It is a simple fabric weave, and called basic organization. It includes three types: plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.
② Small pattern tissue: It is formed by the combination of the above three basic tissue changes. Such as mountain-shaped twill and sharp twill.
③ Complex tissue: It also includes dual tissue (mostly woven into thick terry cloth, cotton velvet blankets, etc.), raised tissue (such as corduroy cloth), and towel tissue (terry fabric), double weave (terry fabric) and leno weave.
④ Large pattern tissue: also known as jacquard tissue, weaving beautiful patterns such as flowers, birds, fish, insects, birds and animals.
⑤ Satin weave: The cloth surface is smooth but not strong, easy to scratch, and easy to fluff.
3. Density of fabric
Density refers to the warp and weft yarns in the unit length of the finished fabric The number of yarns is usually expressed as the number of yarns in 10 square centimeters or 1 square inch. Common densities of bedding fabrics: 30S yarn 78*65, 78*54, 20S yarn 60*60, 40S yarn 90*90, 220*80, 133*72, 28S yarn 70*60, unit: root/1 inch.
4. Moisture regain of fabric, standard weight
① Moisture regain = (wet weight -Dry weight)/Dry weight 65/35 cloth 3.06%, polyester
Cotton 50/50, cloth 4.2%
② Official weight: The weight of the fabric under the public moisture regain is the public weight.
NO.4
Textile classification
1. According to use
It can be divided into three categories: clothing textiles, decorative textiles, and industrial supplies;
① Textiles for clothing include various textile fabrics used to make clothing, as well as various textile accessories such as sewing threads, elastic bands, collar linings, and linings, as well as knitted garments, gloves, socks, etc.
② Decorative textiles must have more outstanding characteristics than other textiles in terms of variety structure, texture pattern and color matching. It can also be said to be a craft Fine art. Can be divided into indoor products, bedding products and outdoor products, including home fabrics and restaurant and bathroom products, such as: carpets, sofa covers, chairs, tapestries, patches, image covers, textiles, curtains, towels, tea towels, tablecloths, Handkerchiefs, etc.; bedding includes bedspreads, sheets, quilt tops, quilt covers, blankets, towel quilts, pillow cores, quilt cores, pillowcases, etc. Outdoor products include artificial turf, etc.
③ Industrial textiles are widely used and come in many varieties. Common ones include tarpaulins, gun jackets, filter cloths, screens, roadbed cloths, etc.
2. According to production method
Divided into six categories: threads, belts, ropes, woven fabrics, and textile cloths:
① Thread: Textile fibers are processed by spinning Yarn, two or more yarns are twisted into a thread;
② Ribbons: narrow or tubular fabrics, called ribbons;
③ Rope: multiple strands of threads twisted together to form a rope;
④ Woven fabric: made of interlaced warp and weft Fabrics are called woven fabrics;
⑤ Knitted fabrics: fabrics made of yarns intertwined into loops and directly formed clothing items are knitted fabrics;
⑥ Non-woven fabrics: without traditional Textile technology, and the thin sheet textile formed by fiber laying processing is called non-woven fabric.
NO.5
The warp or weft of the fabric
Various fabrics have length and width. The length parallel to the edge of the cloth is called the piece length, and the direction of the piece length is It is the radial direction of the fabric; the length perpendicular to the edge of the fabric is called the width, and the direction of the width is the weft direction of the fabric. When weaving, the yarns used in the radial direction are called warp yarns, and the yarns used in the weft direction are called. Weft.
NO.6
Fabric shrinkage
1. Shrinkage of fabric
The shrinkage of fabric refers to the percentage of fabric shrinkage after washing or soaking in water. Generally speaking, fabrics with a large shrinkage rate. yes Synthetic fiber and its blended fabrics, followed by woolen fabrics and linen fabrics, cotton fabrics are in the middle and have larger shrinkage, and the larger ones are viscose fiber, artificial cotton, and artificial wool fabrics.
2. Factors causing fabric shrinkage
① Different raw materials of fabrics have different shrinkage rates. Generally speaking, fibers with high hygroscopicity will expand, increase in diameter, and shorten in length after being soaked in water, and the shrinkage rate will be the same.big. For example, the water absorption rate of some viscose fibers is as high as 13%, while synthetic fiber fabrics have poor hygroscopicity and their shrinkage rate is small.
② Different fabric densities have different shrinkage rates. If the longitudinal and latitudinal densities are similar, the longitudinal and latitudinal shrinkage rates are also similar. Fabrics with a high warp density will shrink in the warp direction; conversely, fabrics with a weft density greater than warp density will shrink in the weft direction.
③ The fabric yarn count is different and the shrinkage rate is also different. Fabrics with a thicker yarn count will have a greater shrinkage rate, while fabrics with a finer yarn count will have a smaller shrinkage rate.
④ Different fabric production processes have different shrinkage rates. Generally speaking, during the weaving, dyeing and finishing process of fabrics, the fibers have to be stretched many times, and the processing time is long. The shrinkage of fabrics with greater tension will be greater, and vice versa.
NO.7
How to identify fabric
The feel of fabric is an important factor that people use to identify the quality of fabric. Specifically, the psychological response to the feeling of touching the fabric with your hands is different due to the different varieties and quality of the fabrics. The hand feeling effect of the fabrics is also very different. The hand feel has the following aspects:
① Whether the fabric body is stiff or loose;
②The smoothness and roughness of the fabric surface;
③The softness and hardness of the fabric;
④The thinness and thickness of the fabric;
⑤The coldness and warmth of the fabric;
⑥The fabric has a irritating and non-irritating feeling to the skin.
For example: silk fabrics feel cool when you touch them; pure wool fabrics feel warm; fine cotton fabrics that feel fine and smooth are mostly made of high-count yarns Copied; fabrics with a rough feel are mostly made of low-count yarns.
In addition, people can also use force to stretch, scratch and other movements with their hands, and then through eye observation and hand feeling,The elasticity, strength, wrinkle resistance and fiber type of the fabric can be judged. But in general, feel is an important means when purchasing fabrics and clothing.
NO.8
Pure cotton woven fabric
1. Definition
Pure cotton woven fabric is made of cotton as raw material. It is made up of vertical and horizontal ups and downs of warp and weft yarns intertwined through a loom. Made of textiles.
2. Pure cotton fabrics are divided into
① Natural white cloth: ordinary cloth, fine cloth , coarse cloth, canvas, twill gray cloth, original color cloth.
②Colored cloth: There are vulcanized blue cloth, vulcanized ink cloth, Shilin blue cloth, Shilin gray cloth, colored poplin, various colors of khaki, and various colors of Chinese cloth. .
③ Floral cloth: It is cloth printed and dyed with various colors and patterns. Such as: plain printed fabric, printed twill, printed serge, printed Zhigong.
④ Yarn-dyed fabric: It is a fabric made by dyeing yarn or thread first and then weaving it on a machine, such as checked cloth, quilt cloth, flannel cloth, etc. Threads, decorative fabrics, etc.
3. Characteristics of pure cotton fabrics
① Hygroscopicity: Cotton fiber has good hygroscopicity Hygroscopicity, under normal circumstances, the fiber can absorb moisture from the surrounding atmosphere, and its moisture content is 8-10%, so when it contacts human skin, it makes people feel soft but not stiff. If the humidity of cotton cloth increases and the surrounding temperature is high, all the moisture contained in the fiber will evaporate and dissipate, keeping the fabric in a water balance state and making people feel comfortable.
② Moisturizing properties: Because cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, the thermal conductivity coefficient is extremely low, and because cotton fiber itself has the advantages of porosity and high elasticity, A large amount of air can accumulate between fibers, and air is a poor conductor of heat and electricity. Therefore, pure cotton fiber textiles have good moisture retention, and wearing pure cotton fabrics makes people feel warm.
③ Heat resistance: Pure cotton fabric has good heat resistance, at 2 degrees CelsiusWhen the temperature is below 20C, it will only cause the water on the fabric to evaporate and will not damage the fiber. Therefore, the pure cotton fabric will have no effect on the fabric when worn, used, washed, printed and dyed at room temperature, thus improving the washability and wear resistance of the pure cotton fabric. .
④ Alkali resistance: Cotton fiber has greater resistance to alkali. When cotton fiber is in an alkali solution, the fiber will not be damaged. This property is beneficial to consumption. Afterwards, the pollution is washed, disinfected and impurities removed. At the same time, pure cotton textiles can also be dyed, printed and processed with various processes to produce more new varieties of cotton fabrics.
⑤ Hygiene: Cotton fiber is a natural fiber, its main component is cellulose, as well as a small amount of waxy substances, nitrogen-containing substances and pectin. Pure cotton fabrics have been tested and practiced in many aspects. There is no irritation or negative effects when the fabric comes into contact with the skin. It is beneficial to the human body when worn for a long time and has good hygienic performance.
NO.9
Man-made fiber fabric (chemical fiber)
1. Definition
Chemical fiber is the use of natural polymer substances or synthetic polymer substances. The general term for textile fibers obtained through chemical processing.
2. Classification (according to raw materials and production methods)
① Man-made fibers: It is a large-scale production variety of chemical fiber. It is made of natural polymer materials containing cellulose or protein, such as wood, bagasse, reed, soybeans, cheese, etc., as raw materials, and is processed chemically and mechanically. For example: artificial cotton, rayon, artificial wool, tiger kapok, Fuqiang cotton.
② Synthetic fiber: Synthetic fiber is a major category of chemical fiber. It is a by-product of the petrochemical industry and the coking industry. For example: polyester, nylon, polyester, vinylon, polypropylene, chlorine, etc. are all synthetic fibers.
NO.10
Blended fabric
Blended chemical fiber fabric is a textile product made of chemical fiber mixed with other natural fibers such as cotton, silk, linen and other natural fibers. For example: Polyester cotton fabric, polyester wool gabardine, etc.
NO.22
Key points for washing, ironing, collection and storage of fabric products
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1. Pay attention to maintaining the shape of key parts of clothing, such as shoulders, collars, cuffs, etc., especially hard collars finished with resin, which must be brushed .
2. For fabrics with typical styles, attention should be paid to protecting their unique appearance and inner patterns, such as corduroy, velveteen, etc. When twisting, wrap the suede inside, and flatten it when drying to avoid deformation of the suede. For jacquard fabrics, do not use a hard brush to wash them vigorously to prevent yarn breakage and fluffing.
3. Cotton fabrics have good physical and chemical properties, but they should not be soaked in washing liquid for too long or exposed to the sun for too long to prevent color damage.
4. Cotton fabrics are easy to lose color. When washing, prevent cross-dying and color matching, which will affect the appearance of the fabric.
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